| PROTECTING
YOUR ART Care and
Preservation of Works of Art on Paper
By Gary Felgemaker
Now that you have purchased that artwork take care of
it! You have a responsibility to the artist and yourself
let alone thinking about resale value.
The greatest damage to artwork is caused by sunlight.
Drawings with watercolor, sketches in felt pen, even
photographs, will substantially fade if exposed to strong
sunlight. Sunlight will turn India ink drawings brown
over time. Digital photographs, even when printed on
Epson paper and laser color prints will, within three to
five years, lose the color and value.
The simple solution is to use `UV' Plexiglas instead
of regular picture glass. `UV' Plexiglas will filter out
the sun's harmful rays and will permanently protect the
work. The Plexiglas does not look any different than
picture glass, does not distort or tint the artwork and
is not much different in cost than regular glass. `UV'
Plexiglas is definitely worth it!
The second threat to works of art on paper is the
framing. Many framers will dry mount or glue your artwork
onto a backing to keep it flat. Aside from the fact that
this will reduce the value of the artwork, it places the
work in jeopardy. Paper expands and contracts with the
temperature changes. If the work is mounted, it will
expand and contract at a different rate that the backing;
over time, this results in the artwork buckling and even
splitting.
When you take your artwork to your framer, ask for a
museum mount. A museum frame package consists
first of a window mat. The mat should have three to four
inch wide margins to display the artwork and should be of
acid free 100% rag board. Acid free board was discovered
by the Metropolitan Museum of New York nearly forty years
ago. Never use paper mat board. This board, while
cheaper, is very acid and will burn and discolor your
artwork within a ten-year period. You have probably seen
old newspapers that have turned orange and became very
brittle. That was the result of the acid content of the
newsprint. The window mat keeps the artwork away from the
glass and prevents transfer of the image onto the glass
(this is particularly the case with felt pen drawings and
works sprayed with fixative).
The artwork should be hung with linen tape onto a
4-ply acid free backing board so that the work can expand
and contract freely. Masking or other adhesive tapes
should never be utilized because the adhesive will
penetrate the paper. The backing board in turn is backed
with neutral ph foam core board and then the entire
package put into the frame. If your work is museum
framed, it will be protected for 30-40 years.
If your artwork is damaged, take it to a professional;
you'll be surprised what can be done. Stains and acid
burns can be bleached out, paper can be cleaned, most
backings can be removed and tears can be repaired. Most
artists utilize good quality paper, but if the paper has
an acid content or feels brittle, it can be deacidified.
And artist's mistakes can be corrected.
Recently, I worked on a graphite portrait of a hot man
by Tom of Finland. It seems that after Tom had completed
the sketch, he sprayed the artwork with fixative without
testing the spray first. The fixative shot out in big
globs like... like... a slave cuming after being kept in
a chastity device for weeks while being stimulated with
an anal-electro device that... ah, but I digress...
anyway it turned the sketch into a very crude messy
drawing, which was never displayed. Utilizing solvents,
the fixative was removed and the pencil drawing was
restored to its original condition. But this type of work
is very time consuming and very expensive. It is always
better to take good care of your artwork at the onset.
 
Detail of the damage
before, and the hot restored man
after
|